Digo Dancing and the Medicine Man (collin)

Today was a fascinating day from a cultural perspective. We went up to the village of Vuga this morning to see a group of traditional Digo Singers and Dancers perform. The rhythms and melodies were awe inspiring. I was so glad that we could witness this event. 

At 2 different points, the dancers pulled Lindsay into the action. She was a great sport about it and tried her best to follow along. I was immeasurably grateful that Lindsay sacrificed herself and handed me the video camera... a justification for an excused absence from the jumping and shaking (if you don't know, I have a strange phobia. Dancing to fast music scares the life out of me). Here's a little clip of Linds joining in the fun. (Lindsay writing here: If you have trouble spotting me, I'm the awkward white girl pursing her lips together in a concentrated effort to shake the beads on my shawl in tempo. Oh, the things we do for the people we love.)

After the dancing, we went to visit the Chief again. He had arranged a visit to a traditional Digo Medicine Man for us. Medicine men (also sometimes called witch doctors) are such a central part of this culture, he felt that it would be essential for us to witness this first hand if we really want to understand the Digo People.

We learned a lot of fundamental beliefs that many Digo people hold and practice (regardless of religious affiliations... Christians... Muslims... you name it). 

The Medicine Man was very welcoming and hospitable. He spent a couple of hours with us explaining the various aspects of what he does. His story is a fascinating one.

He was born here (near vuga) and lived here until he was 12. At that point he developed some sort of condition in his eyes that the doctors couldn't heal. He also began to manifest what sounded to me like psychological imbalances (he called it madness). He would often run away into the forest in his sleep and bring various types of herbs back home because he dreamt that they would cure him. This caused his grandfather who was also a medicine man (this profession / calling is always passed down through the family) to realize that he was special and would one day be a great medicine man. The grandfather began to train him to carry on the family legacy. Before his training was complete, his madness caused him to run away to Tanzania. He left at the age of 12, not knowing anyone, and spent 16 years away from his home country. When he returned, he felt that he was ready to take up his calling.

He spent the next several years learning all kinds of cures, herbal remedies, methods for communicating with ancestors, and ways of dealing with evil spirits. He opened a business and now he has become the most powerful and respected medicine man in the region.

He told us that his power comes directly from God. He said he works with everyone because God says in his scriptures (the Bible and the Koran) that He helps those who try to help themselves. He said that at times he also consults with spirits if the occasion calls for it, but his main job is to liaise with God. 

He deals in everything from cures for cholera, to curses of death placed on ex-spouses.  He said his clients range from school children suffering from an ailment, to medical researchers looking for new cures from plants found in the jungle, to pastors who want a bigger congregation to fill the pews in their churches. He has a remedy, or information, or a ritual for everyone.

Apparently, it is exceedingly common for people to consult the medicine man. If you are bitten by a poisonous snake, he has a cure. If you have heart trouble, he has a remedy. If you need to place a curse on an ex- lover, he can do it for you. If you have been cursed, he can remove it. 

Some of the remedies involve herbs and plants collected from sacred parts of the jungle. Some are more spiritual in nature. We spent a long time sitting in his office (a small mud hut on his compound). We sat on the floor surrounded by countless charms and curiosities of all types. Everything has a specific purpose, but to us it looked so haphazard and other-worldly that it created an incredible atmosphere. 

There were candles, bottles of potions, old coins, a dried bird wrapped in goat skin, paintings, tufts of hair, nuts, shells... Every inch of the hut was filled.

There was one particularly interesting painting hanging over his head (see pic). When I asked what it was he replied in a mater of fact tone "A demon. I use it to cure the possessed."

We were very grateful for his willingness to talk to us and his transparency. We learned so much about the views and values of people here.

One other thing we learned... This is quite a lucrative line of work. He is visited by so many people so frequently that his business is booming and he is making FAR more than any income I have ever heard of around here. He said that on a busy day he will make about 10,000 shillings. To put that in perspective, the soapmaking group we visited last week makes 350 shillings for a hard day's work and then split it 15 ways. The guard at our compound (in a wealthy, westernized town) works a 12 hour shift for 100 shillings. I'll be honest. On the way out of his compound I cast a jealous eye on his shiny new motorcycle.

So, that is the story of our day of cultural education. Some of the things discussed in this post may bring up questions about our role here in terms of our faith and its relation to the complex clash / combination of religious beliefs in this area. We plan on writing a post dedicated to to this issue. It is a big subject though, so we'll tackle that at a later date.