In Closing

When I was a child, my world was smaller. My family, my friends, and the things that mattered to me felt contained and readily accessible. 

It's not that simple anymore. People I love are now spread across the world, and a few have even moved on past this world. All the pieces of my heart can never be collected and put together all at once in the same place ever again while I am here on this earth.  

Yet, as the current of time brings loss and separation, it also brings reunions, beginnings, accomplishments, victories, revelations, friendships, ideas, and life.

Collin and I have had such a wonderful time here in Kwale this past month. This place and some of the people here have become so much a part of our heart. We will miss Terry, Paul, and their son David so much.  Without them here making a difference day by day, we wouldn't be able to have a hand in any of these projects. My life is so much richer because of them. 

During those moments when I wonder what difference my life is making, I often reflect on the things that are happening here in Kwale. The children who get two meals a day at Pamoja, the infants who are being cared for while their mothers finish school, the women who make soap, the carpentry class, the sewing class, the micro-finance group. I feel so thankful and honored that I have been able to play a small part in helping and supporting these projects.

Collin and I have considered moving here at some point in our life. We know that the timing has to be right, though. We feel that our involvement from the U.S. has made a bigger impact than if we would have lived here for the past few years. This is partly because we are connected to a church of people who have remained committed to supporting the programs and projects here in Digoland. One of our major hesitations about moving here is that we don't want people to forget Digoland. Or us. I don't want to become those people that show up every ten years and nobody knows who they are or what they are really doing, anyway. I don't have anyone specific in mind, but you know...those people who eventually just become a "pray for Collin and Lindsay" prayer card buried somewhere underneath pictures and to-do lists on your refrigerator. 

Anyway, all this to say, today we had to say goodbye to Terry, Paul, and Dave. It is sad to leave them for another year at least. I treasured our time here so much this month. It went very quickly for us because we packed as much as we could into these three weeks in Kwale. 

It was a really great day with our friends. We discussed some business: future directions we'd like to try to take with some of the projects, the financial breakdown of each of the major projects in which we are involved, and the long-term and short-term goals of the projects. Then we went out for a fabulous Italian dinner and had a lot of fun spending our last evening together. 

Tomorrow we will pack our bags, return our motorbike, and tie up all other loose ends here. Our shuttle to the airport will be arriving at 6:00 am on Monday to take us to the airport. We look forward to seeing our friends and family at home. 

We thank all of you loyal blog readers! It was energizing to know that so many of you were following along with what was going on here over the past few weeks. We truly appreciate all of your support.

Although we are wrapping up this blog for now, we know that we will return home and what has been done here is just a beginning. We invite anyone who would like to be involved on any level to contact us. There is tremendous opportunity to make an impact here. 

Aging Well (collin)

We spent today in the village of Golini. This has to be one of the most beautiful places on earth. It is located high up above the coastal plains on the very top of a ridge. The rolling land is lush and green with a dense cover of coconut and mango trees. This creates a deep shade while maintaining an open, grove-like feeling below. There are sweeping views of the countryside over the edge of the ridge and a fresh breeze is constantly blowing.

We went to visit 2 families in the region, the Mwalonya family and the Mwaveku family. Historically, there have been 4 Christian families in the Digo tribe. The families that we visited today were 2 of the 4. We simply wanted to pay our respects to them and spend some time together.

We spent the first part of the day with Shadrack Mwalonya and his family. Shadrack (the guy we saw in the market the other day and recognized from our first trip here) is a kind and jovial fellow with a face that looks like his years have simply served to add to his wisdom and joy.

We sat on his porch overlooking the valley and shared a meal as he alternated between recounting his family history and cracking everyone up with his good humor. We ate sima (a thick paste made of maize flour), Sukuma (greens cut up and boiled in a sauce), and mangos. It is customary here to share from one dish and use only your right hand to eat (no utensils). Being a left handed American who is used to eating with a fork, this was a little tricky to master, but I have honed my skills to the point where I am no longer the comedic entertainment at a meal.

After lunch, we walked to the home of Jonathan Mwaveku. Jonathan is 77 years old. That alone is remarkable here. Add to that the fact that he is married to the same women he fell in love with in his youth, and he is truly one of a kind.

When we arrived, he greeted us warmly and welcomed us into his hut. We sat talking for a while and I was deeply moved by this man's true joy. He is nearly blind, his health is failing, and his life contains none of the comforts an American would expect for a man of this age. Yet, when he spoke of his faith, his life, and his marriage, his words reflected pure gratitude for everything he has enjoyed.

About 20 minutes into our visit, we heard a noise that sounded something like a baby crying. It was weaker yet slightly more desperate sounding. He held up a finger to communicate that something more important had arisen, and he stood and shuffled to the other room. Shadrack told us that his wife had awoken and was calling him. 

As it turns out, Jonathan's wife is quite ill and has been for 4 years now. Throughout that entire time, he has stayed by her side and waited on her in every way possible. She has been bedridden for the past 2 years, and has suffered multiple strokes. At this point, she is so frail, she can barely turn her head on the pillow. She is so frail... just so frail... she can't weigh more than 75 pounds. She is so weak, she can barely talk.

Jonathan sat next to her bed and talked to her.  His undying love was etched in every line on his face. His care is so tender.

When she fell back to sleep Jonathan told us that they have been so blessed and so happy. He said that it won't be long now. He knows that their time here on earth is ending and he is happy for what is next. He said when we hear that they have passed on, please celebrate for them. Please rejoice that they will be living together with God.

When it was time for us to leave, he walked us out. He held each of our hands and thanked us for visiting. I looked back as we left and he was still standing there. He looked thin and small in the forest and I know his eyes could no longer see us, but he stood gazing in our direction with a contented smile... the perfect picture of peace and happiness.

Sharing Our Faith (lindsay)

When the professional Digo dancers came to pull one of us into the dancing yesterday, I knew what I had to do. I handed Collin the video camera and bravely marched forth into the circle. I then proceeded to shake it like a polaroid picture. 

So, this morning, we remembered that one of us was supposed to give an encouraging word to the Christian Union at Golini secondary school this afternoon. I promptly reminded Collin of the dancing scenario and mentioned that nothing says "thank you" like deciding to be the one to deliver a Biblical teaching to a group of high school students. 

Collin and I shared the same major as undergraduates, so I have seen him give presentations to groups several times. I have also read papers that Collin has written, and I have heard him articulate his opinions on politics, social issues, etc. I know that he is intelligent and quite capable of communicating information. I knew that he could do well sharing something from his faith, but I was curious to see what he would say. 

Collin spoke about love and how the rules of the universe have been put in place for our own good--because God loves us. He talked about how God gives us a code of living, and when we break the code it hurts us. Just like a parent makes rules for the good of the child, God gives us parameters within which we live more fulfilling lives. He spoke about taking care of ourselves, too. We need to love ourselves in order to be able to love others well. He differentiated between self-gratifying behavior and true love of one's self. True love of one's self is to accept God's love. To see ourselves as He sees us. With unconditional love.

Today was unique in that we were specifically asked to share a Christian message with a group people. Usually here (in Kwale, and also on this blog), we try to focus on the concept of love as portrayed through the development work that we do here rather than use this blog or our time here as a platform for espousing our faith. This is, in part, because of the complex interplay of faith, social responsibility, development work. 

Terry is our bridge between the Digo community and our church in the US. We defer to her on issues pertaining to faith and sharing it with people. She has relationships with many of the people in the Digo community. Everyone knows that she is a Christian and that we are too. 

The three of us look at it like this: we try to live in a way that people will know we are Christians by our love. We also believe that true religion is caring for widows and orphans. We also believe that we only love God because He first loved us. We believe that people will only want to turn to God if they know His love. And how will they know it if we don't show them? We must show them, not just tell them. 

So for us, we don't do a lot of preaching. We don't do overt evangelism. We don't try to convert people to our religion. Why? Because people don't want or need a new religion here in Digoland. They've got plenty of religion. There is the Islamic religion, there is the Kenyan Christian religion, and there is African Tribal religion. Most Digo people subscribe to one or more of the above. So, if it's religion people are selling, no one needs it. In fact, an attempt to spread religion often leads to a swift rejection due to the animosity between religious groups here.

People here do need love, however. And love to them means food when they would otherwise be starving. Love means education and empowerment for vulnerable members of society (specifically divorced women, widows, and children). Love means showing understanding, compassion, and assistance to young girls who get pregnant and have their families disown them. Love means being responsible with our resources and not thinking that money solves everything. Love means deferring to the community as our guide for how we can partner with them to make their lives better. Love means being open about our faith in Jesus as the quintessential example of what true love is, but not making people feel indebted to convert in exchange for things that we believe are basic human rights. Love is accepting others as they are, as Jesus accepts us as we are. 

So, Collin's message is one that sounds simple, yet, we will spend our lives trying to learn and practice it more and more each day. 

Digo Dancing and the Medicine Man (collin)

Today was a fascinating day from a cultural perspective. We went up to the village of Vuga this morning to see a group of traditional Digo Singers and Dancers perform. The rhythms and melodies were awe inspiring. I was so glad that we could witness this event. 

At 2 different points, the dancers pulled Lindsay into the action. She was a great sport about it and tried her best to follow along. I was immeasurably grateful that Lindsay sacrificed herself and handed me the video camera... a justification for an excused absence from the jumping and shaking (if you don't know, I have a strange phobia. Dancing to fast music scares the life out of me). Here's a little clip of Linds joining in the fun. (Lindsay writing here: If you have trouble spotting me, I'm the awkward white girl pursing her lips together in a concentrated effort to shake the beads on my shawl in tempo. Oh, the things we do for the people we love.)

After the dancing, we went to visit the Chief again. He had arranged a visit to a traditional Digo Medicine Man for us. Medicine men (also sometimes called witch doctors) are such a central part of this culture, he felt that it would be essential for us to witness this first hand if we really want to understand the Digo People.

We learned a lot of fundamental beliefs that many Digo people hold and practice (regardless of religious affiliations... Christians... Muslims... you name it). 

The Medicine Man was very welcoming and hospitable. He spent a couple of hours with us explaining the various aspects of what he does. His story is a fascinating one.

He was born here (near vuga) and lived here until he was 12. At that point he developed some sort of condition in his eyes that the doctors couldn't heal. He also began to manifest what sounded to me like psychological imbalances (he called it madness). He would often run away into the forest in his sleep and bring various types of herbs back home because he dreamt that they would cure him. This caused his grandfather who was also a medicine man (this profession / calling is always passed down through the family) to realize that he was special and would one day be a great medicine man. The grandfather began to train him to carry on the family legacy. Before his training was complete, his madness caused him to run away to Tanzania. He left at the age of 12, not knowing anyone, and spent 16 years away from his home country. When he returned, he felt that he was ready to take up his calling.

He spent the next several years learning all kinds of cures, herbal remedies, methods for communicating with ancestors, and ways of dealing with evil spirits. He opened a business and now he has become the most powerful and respected medicine man in the region.

He told us that his power comes directly from God. He said he works with everyone because God says in his scriptures (the Bible and the Koran) that He helps those who try to help themselves. He said that at times he also consults with spirits if the occasion calls for it, but his main job is to liaise with God. 

He deals in everything from cures for cholera, to curses of death placed on ex-spouses.  He said his clients range from school children suffering from an ailment, to medical researchers looking for new cures from plants found in the jungle, to pastors who want a bigger congregation to fill the pews in their churches. He has a remedy, or information, or a ritual for everyone.

Apparently, it is exceedingly common for people to consult the medicine man. If you are bitten by a poisonous snake, he has a cure. If you have heart trouble, he has a remedy. If you need to place a curse on an ex- lover, he can do it for you. If you have been cursed, he can remove it. 

Some of the remedies involve herbs and plants collected from sacred parts of the jungle. Some are more spiritual in nature. We spent a long time sitting in his office (a small mud hut on his compound). We sat on the floor surrounded by countless charms and curiosities of all types. Everything has a specific purpose, but to us it looked so haphazard and other-worldly that it created an incredible atmosphere. 

There were candles, bottles of potions, old coins, a dried bird wrapped in goat skin, paintings, tufts of hair, nuts, shells... Every inch of the hut was filled.

There was one particularly interesting painting hanging over his head (see pic). When I asked what it was he replied in a mater of fact tone "A demon. I use it to cure the possessed."

We were very grateful for his willingness to talk to us and his transparency. We learned so much about the views and values of people here.

One other thing we learned... This is quite a lucrative line of work. He is visited by so many people so frequently that his business is booming and he is making FAR more than any income I have ever heard of around here. He said that on a busy day he will make about 10,000 shillings. To put that in perspective, the soapmaking group we visited last week makes 350 shillings for a hard day's work and then split it 15 ways. The guard at our compound (in a wealthy, westernized town) works a 12 hour shift for 100 shillings. I'll be honest. On the way out of his compound I cast a jealous eye on his shiny new motorcycle.

So, that is the story of our day of cultural education. Some of the things discussed in this post may bring up questions about our role here in terms of our faith and its relation to the complex clash / combination of religious beliefs in this area. We plan on writing a post dedicated to to this issue. It is a big subject though, so we'll tackle that at a later date.

Rain (lindsay)

Today it rained almost all day. Usually, a rain storm happens once or twice in a day, but today it was pouring almost all day. We road our bike up to Kwale in the rain, and we walked through Kwale in the rain.

I have a slight allergy to rain, and sometimes I break into hives when rain drops hit my skin. It's strange, but also kind of neat like a science experiment. I took two Benadryl and that made my hives disappear, but now I'm pretty groggy. Forgive me if there are typos or if this post isn't quite as coherent as usual.

Our rainy walk in the mud lead us to the Literacy Center. We were going to meet with Gideon M'betsa (the manager of the office), but he had just left prior to our arrival. He had a family emergency and had to leave. We did manage to buy a tri-lingual dictionary (Chidigo, Kiswahili, and English), so the trip was productive in that sense.

We then went to meet the women from the women's group (the Tuesday group that made the soap last week) at the Pamoja Center. We were given our soap in it's finished state: cured and packaged. We were supposed to meet the women's group to see them perform some traditional Digo dancing and singing, but there was a mix-up with the timing and most of them left before we arrived. Appointments and scheduling are handled so differently here than in the U.S. You learn to roll with it. Flexibility and resilience are pretty crucial skills.

Today's dancing and singing was rescheduled for tomorrow morning instead. It will be a different group of women (people who do this professionally for a living). I'm excited to see this part of the culture and film it.

Tomorrow we will also be visiting the chief again, and he will go with us to meet a medicine man. We will talk with the medicine man about his role in the community and what he does. I am very curious about this because it is a huge part of Digo culture. Rather than fight, people go to their medicine men for advice and assistance. By assistance, I mean that it is common for people to pay their respective medicine men to put curses on the people with whom they are fighting. 

Collin and I were discussing the correlation between power themes and belief in the supernatural. I saw some laundry hanging on a fence to dry today, but it was pouring rain all day. I thought: Wow. To not even be able to control when your clothes will be dry and clean--how powerless you would feel when it rains for days at a time some months.

Likewise, with sickness--when we are mildly ill, it is probable that the medicine we need will be available at our physician's office. It is not usually this way for people in the Digo community. Access to money and medicine is much more limited. How powerless I would have felt if I couldn't have gotten an antibiotic this past week to cure my strep throat.

In a lot of ways, the average person in the Digo community doesn't have control over these types of things. When you can't control your life on a basic level such as having food, health, and dry clothes, it is no wonder that people turn to the supernatural realm for help. Where else do you turn when your resources run out, and you have no other human recourse for help?

Anyway, after our rainy excursion around Kwale, we landed back at Terry's house for a while. We hung out with the infants for a while, and then drove home when the rain lessened. The bike worked well today, so that was great news.

Now we are back at our cottage, and our internet is working as is our electricity. This is also good news. My health has fully returned (thanks for your prayers, emails, and encouragements), and I am excited to make the most of our last week here in Kwale.

It has been a while

Sorry it has been a few days since we posted anything. The main reason for our disappearance is that the internet here has been down for about 3 days. There have been a few times when we had a VERY slow connection, but never enough to post anything. When I say slow, I mean I tried for 3 hours to log into my email. The page was almost loaded when the connection dropped. 

So, let me catch everyone up on the past few days.

The main thing is that Lindsay is feeling a LOT better. She said that she feels like her health is back to about 90%. Getting her healed up was the main focus of our weekend. Her new antibiotics (imported from india) seem to have really knocked this thing out. She has been resting a lot and I have been doing whatever I can to help her feel better. 

After a couple days of rest and recovery, Linds felt ready to head back out. 

We rode the bike up to Kwale today. When I say "rode the bike," I really mean hobbled along. The engine stalled 3 times while we were driving at high speeds. The third time it stalled, there just so happened to be a matatu passing a truck in front of us. They were barreling straight toward us in our lane while driving around 70 mph or so. Keep in mind that we were stalled but still moving fairly quickly. Our only option to avoid a head on collision was to make a sudden turn and veer off the road. 

I may or may not have shouted something very unchristianlike at the matatu driver as we flew into the ditch. To those who might be worried that I offended someone, you can rest assured that they didn't hear anything as they roared past with the engine revved up and the radio blaring.

After this, I couldn't even get the bike started again. I had to remove a hose, drain the carburetor, and make a few adjustments to the fuel supply. This solved the stalling issue, but shortly after we were back on the road the chain popped off of the rear sprocket. This was easy enough to fix, but then it happened again... and again... and again... actually it happened 7 times. I realized that this was happening because the person who put the rear wheel back on the bike yesterday (oh yeah, we had another tire blow out while riding into the center of town yesterday) didn't put it back on correctly and the chain was too loose.  

We limped the bike back to the fundi (expert) who "fixed" the bike yesterday and had him correct this mistake. Since then, we've been OK, but we are beginning to count down the days that we must rely on this fabulous machine. Did I mention that the gear shift lever is broken, the clutch sticks badly, the brakes are shaky, the lights are sporadic and the electronic starter works about 1 in 8 tries? You have to realize that I say all of this with a sense of humor, because having our own bike (even this bike) is FAR better than having to take the matatu everywhere.

When we finally made it to Kwale, we visited the vocational training center again. I would like to revisit my previous discussion of how amazing this place is. There are dozens of people being trained here. These are hard working people who will soon have jobs in their new trade. Without the training center, this would not be an option. The samples of things that they have produced as training exercises are high-quality, beautifully crafted products. These workers will be great assets to their communities. 

The instructor of the sewing class thought it would be nice if he and the class could make us jackets. Lindsay and I loved this idea. We picked up some fabric when we went to mombassa. Today we dropped the material off and had our measurements taken. I will be very proud to sport the Pamoja Vocational fashion back in the U.S.

We then went to Terry and Paul's house and spent the rest of the day hanging out, talking about the various programs, and playing with the kids who live at the Infant Care Center (conveniently located next to Terry's house).

Having been here for 2 weeks now with all of these projects in full swing, I am happier than ever to be associated with everything going on here. I can't wait to bring information back home to anyone who would like to be involved with future projects. We have some great ideas brewing.

Update on Linds's health

I ended the last post by saying that Linds wasn't feeling tip-top. She took a dose of levaquin and went to bed last night hoping to wake up feeling better.

Instead, things had gotten worse over night. Her sore throat was really bad, she had a pretty high fever and a rash had spread over much of her body. All of these symptoms met the criteria for Scarlet Fever.

We went to the hospital here in town to figure out what was going on. The doctor told us that it was probably a combination 2 things. First, she has strepp (sore throat and fever). Second, she was having an allergic reaction to the levaquin. He took her off of the levaquin and prescribed her a different antibiotic that would take care of the strepp without giving her an allergic reaction.

When we got back to our house here, we called our trusty doctor from the U.S. He has coached us through several trips, physical injuries, diseases, physical training regimens, etc... He is such a great doctor. He is very thorough and incredibly knowledgeable, so we feel entirely confident after talking to him about something like this. He told us that he agreed with everything we had been told in the hospital here and that if we were in the U.S. he would have done everything just the same.

We feel relieved and thankful that it isn't something much worse. We are glad to have a weekend for Linds to rest and recoup. Thanks to everyone for praying, sending encouraging emails, etc...

Mombassa Day (collin)

Today we got up early to travel to Mombassa and spend the day in the city. This was a really exciting thing to do because there are several things I have always wanted to check out in Mombassa, but I have never had enough time there. I LOVED the city. I'll talk a bit more about it in a minute, but first I'll discuss the business that took us into town.

We went to the city to pick up a few things for Pamoja Children's Center, the Infant Care Center, and the Vocational Training Center. The Kwale market is wonderful, but there are certain things that you just can't buy there. We found everything were looking for, in the markets in Mombassa, so that was great.

Also, while we were in the city, we were able to get together with the pastor of a vineyard church in Mombassa. His name is Gary Sampson. I felt very privileged to get to spend some time with him. He moved to Kenya from South Africa several years ago (about 13 years ago I think) and started his church in Mombassa 8 years ago. His church is in a posh neighborhood on the coast and targets well educated, upper class people from the city. It is a western style church (music, teaching style, service structure etc...).

Our purpose in meeting with him was to explore the possibility of having our church partner with his church in some way as we continue to work with the Digo People. His vision for his church and his goals are different enough from our goals for our work with the Digo People that I doubt our church will really do very much with him (also, mombassa is a couple of hours away by car and a world away in terms of culture). However, it was nice to spend some time with a kind person who has relocated to Kenya and is very successful in what they set out to do. Plus, you never know what will happen in the future. Terry was with us at the meeting and we talked at great length about her community development projects and all of the positive work that she is doing the region. He invited her to come to his church sometime and said that at some point she can speak to his congregation about what she is doing. Maybe there will be some caring people who take an interest in her work. Having some semi-local people from an upscale area notice this work and take an interest in it might wind up being a good thing.

Now a few words about the city of Mombassa. First of all, just getting there from the south-coast is a total adventure. We took the matatus so that we wouldn't have to worry about our bike getting stolen in the city (it isn't the most crime free place in the world :) Getting on a matatu in the first place is quite an experience for an American. As you approach the city however, the experience changes. The number of people in the beat up old van went from around 15 to about 25. The streets went from hectic to something almost unrecognizable as a road. There are SO MANY people hauling stuff to and from the city, that the road is a sea of people, bikes, and carts all loaded beyond belief with wares of every type. 

The matatu dropped us off at the ferry (mombassa is on an island) and we boarded on foot... along with literally thousands of other people. I have never been in a crowd quite like that before. It was like a standing room only concert, but rather than standing, everyone is jostling and rushing for a spot on the boat before it pulls out.

The city itself is incredibly beautiful. It is a very international city (a port city) with people from all over the world. Historically, there was a tremendous arabic influence there, so the architecture and the culture has a definite middle eastern flavor. There are beautifully ornate mosques all throughout the city. In some parts of town, there are parks and plazas with beautiful flowers and benches in the shade of palm trees. In "Old City," many of the streets are too narrow for cars. The markets spill out of the old stone buildings onto the sidewalks and roadways so that there is barely enough room to walk between the rows upon rows of vibrant fabrics and luscious fruits. Many of the women are in full burqas and the men wear long, flowing white robes. Everywhere, there are pungent aromas ranging from freshly fried samosas to the leather of custom made shoes for sale by the hundreds. All of the smells are nicely wrapped in the warm salty air that comes rolling in from the postcard-like blue waters of the indian ocean. Of course, in the mix with everything else is the hustle and bustle, the noise, and the... other smells, that are so often associated with a city in a developing nation. The combination of it all was intoxicating. If you ever have a chance to visit this fabulous city, take it.

In other news, Linds isn't feeling tip-top. We think that she got a stress fracture in her foot. She got some wicked blisters from a pair of ill fitting shoes and a 7 mile walk and then spent the entire next day compensating for the blisters and walking in such a way that put a lot of pressure on a different part of her foot. The outside of her foot is now swollen and black and blue. We have had stress fractures before (marathon training and backpacking can do that to you) so we know it will get better soon, but it still hurts for the time being. In addition to the foot pain, she has a sore throat. It is nothing life threatening and she has still been able to have a fabulous time, but it would be nice if she could feel better soon.

Kwale Market Day

Kwale Market Day happens every Wednesday. Vendors set up their booths and sell fabrics, fruits, vegetables, dried fish, clothes, jewelry, dishes, shoes, books...lots of stuff. Today we met Terry at her house in Kwale town. Kwale town is actually Kwale. People refer to this area the Kwale District, and that encompasses the area at large where we are for this month (kind of like a State). Kwale town is it's own thing, though, and it is very cool. In fact, I hope to stay in Kwale town or in one of the more rural areas next time we come here. We stay in Diani (about 45 minutes by motorbike from Kwale town) because we have needed reliable internet for Collin's job. Diani is fantastic, too, but it is more like a city with how busy it is and the international feel. 

So Market Day is pretty awesome. Going with Terry was even more awesome. We didn't get the special American prices that we usually get in Diani. I bought a conga (a piece of fabric that you wrap around like a skirt), Terry bought some clothes for the infants, and Collin bought 4 big, wooden spoons for cooking. 

As we were walking and talking, Terry was discussing ChiDigo literacy with us. She was explaining that the government's role has not been as great as people had hoped. The government teacher that was assigned to teach literacy evades his duties, and when Terry complained to the government office she wasn't given any support. She has no recourse through the government, so she feels that it needs to be yet another grassroots project. We asked if there was anyone reliable who had been trained in literacy work that we could employ if we could find a way to do that. She told us that one of the Pamoja nursery school teachers, Madam Asha, was trained by BTL (Bible Translation and Literacy---the organization responsible for transcribing the Chidigo language) to teach literacy. Awesome! This is great news for our Global Outreach Team. We have been really frustrated by the lack of literacy efforts here after the transcription project was completed. This could be a really great lead for how to get literacy classes going again. Madam Asha is a dedicated and trained teacher. We asked Terry if she thought Madam Asha would be interested in teaching a literacy class (if we could offer a stipend), and she told us that she would. 

Then Collin spotted someone that we met in 2002 during our very first visit to Kwale: Shadrack Mwalonya. He is the cousin of Joseph Mwalonya, a friend of ours who is currently studying Theology in Nairobi. They are Digo, and they are Christians. The coincidence of these two characteristics are uncommon in this area. Most Digos practice Islam and traditional religious beliefs. Therefore, when we met Shadrack and Joseph, it was very special for all of us to share the same faith. 

So, there was Shadrack, having a cup of --?-- (not-coffee, not tea, but a delicious hot drink), and we joined him for a while and talked. He treated Collin and me to a cup of --?--(not-coffee, not tea, but a delicious hot drink), and we both enjoyed it very much. We thought it was going to be coffee, because that's what it looked like. The local name for it escapes me, but it tasted like spice and ginger. It definitely wasn't Chai Masala or any kind of tea that I've had here yet either. Terry stuck with her drink of choice, Chai Masala. So, it was fun. These are the types of moments that really sink in...sitting under a thatched roof pagoda in the midst of a market being served a beverage that remains a mystery to me, talking with friends that we met here through the years. I love moments when my surroundings are so different than my home in the US, yet everything feels so familiar, so poignant, so right. 

After our coffee shop rendezvous with Shadrack, Collin, Terry, and I went back to her place for lunch. Her husband Paul met us there, and we shared a wonderful meal of mataha, salad, and fried potatoes. This is the best place to be a vegan, by the way. So many foods are vegan, and they aren't even substitutes! I love not-dogs, boca-burgers, and chicken-less chicken, but sometimes I forget that there are so many non-substitues foods to eat in this world! I am loving the Chapatis (fried bread), beans and rice, freshest fruit ever, veggies, pilau (spiced fried rice), chips masala (french fry type potatoes slathered in this amazing sauce), and lots of other stuff. Plus the teas, coffee, and mystery beverages are also all delightful! 

Then the three of us went to the Pamoja Center to meet with several village elders. They are the local governing body that reports to the chief. We asked them to meet with us to enlighten us about Digo values, Digo history, Digo culture in general. It was a great time. They spoke for a couple of hours, and Terry translated. Terry took notes, and we filmed it. The three of us are going to review the footage and notes more thoroughly, but the basics that I gleaned were very informative. 

Now we are back at the cottage, and Collin is cooking dinner for us. He is making lentils and rice. He learned this recipe and how to cook it from Sayidi and Idi, two guys who work at Pamoja and prepare the food for the children every day (among many other things that they do to keep the center running). 

Soap-making and micro-financing

Today we spent the day in a village with a group of women who have started a soap-making business using funds from a micro-financed loan. Truthfully I thought it was going to be a bit of a boring day, but I was proven completely wrong.

First off, soap making is a fascinating process. This specific soap is concocted of lye, coconut oil, and the leaves of a tree that is used for medicinal purposes. I forget the name of the tree, but the name literally translates to "forty something cures." The soap is used to cure skin conditions, bruises, scrapes, and just about any small problem you can imagine. The process took several hours from start to finish. 

There are 15 women in the group. Most of the women are primarily subsistence farmers. This business provides them with enough cash to purchase clothes etc... (basically anything they can't grow on a small farm). The women meet once per week to make soap together and discuss any important financial issues facing the group. 

The group was initially given a small loan that provided the start-up costs they needed. Thus far, they have been successful in business and they have been diligent about saving and making the required payments. They are even approaching the point where they can consider making a small loan to another group of women much like their own.

I have read a good deal about micro-financing and I have always been fascinated by it. There are so many things that set it apart from charity. These differences make micro-financing a MUCH more successful method for providing help to people in need. Some of the details are:

• required repayment with interest
• multi-level approvals for different loans
• a group structure that

• uses social ties bind people together in a common cause

• creates a shared responsibility to stick to the original plan, use the money for the intended purpose, and help the project succeed

Seeing these dynamics first hand was very eye opening. We were there for a detailed discussion about how they would enforce repayment from everyone in the group, what could be held as collateral, and how they could make a plan to save more. It was very cool.

This is something that we can discuss in detail with anyone who is interested, but there is definitely potential for people to invest in this sort of thing here. I would strongly encourage people to pursue this if you are interested in making a HUGE difference in a lot of lives with a relatively small investment (some blog readers asked us before we came to keep them informed of ways they could invest here).

After working for the better part of a day, the group produces 50 bars of soap. If they sell all of the soap in a week, they make about $5.00 profit. Yes you read that correctly... $5.00. The entire group splits $5.00 once per week. This is actually enough money to make a substantial difference in the life of a subsistence farmer, but still... $5.00... per week... for the whole group!!! 

On a side note, Lindsay and I purchased all 50 bars of soap that the group made today. We are planning to sell the soap when we get home and send the proceeds to the group. If you would like a nice bar of soap (one that can not only clean but also cure anything :) let us know.

A few pictures

Here are some pictures of people we have met recently. Most of these pictures were taken on the farm that Lindsay described in the last post. 

A Day on the Farm

We had a change of pace over the weekend. We celebrated our anniversary on saturday. On sunday, Collin spent the day looking for the non-existant vineyard church in shimoni. Apparently we received bad intel that led us to believe that such a church exists, because after a couple of hours of riding the bike around and asking countless locals in the very small village of shimoni, we are quite certain that no such church exists.

Today we went up to Vuga, met Terry at Pamoja, and set off walking deep into the rolling green hills. It was so fun to be inside the lush green hills that we always see as we drive through town on our motorbike. It is so beautiful and serene: the red dirt, the banana trees, the contoured maize fields that extend as far as your eye can see. The air smells so good from charcoal burning and various foods cooking. There is something so freeing to go farther back into the remote beauty of Kwale. The homes are made of mud and branches from the coconut palms. The coconut palms are made into shingles and the roofs are thatched. The walls are made with such precision and construction that it is difficult for me to believe the bricks are made of mud.

We walked for several miles today to get to the home of Terry's friend. I don't think we ever made introductions, so I don't know her name. She and her family live on a farm that is 5 hectares. The farm is very productive. They have mango trees, orange trees, banana trees, corn, beans, cassava, cabbage, and probably a lot more that I didn't recognize. It is impressive, especially considering that all the labor is done by hand. They plow, weed, water, and harvest by hand.

Also, it's an organic, vegan farm! They compost the garden with the inedible debris from the fruits and vegetables. That is how they fertilize. No pesticides. No cow manure. The family maintains it, and they are subsistence farmers. This means they rely on it for food and not as much for income. Actually, they really would like some cows at some point to help with the plowing, but for now, they spend their all day, every day managing the farm.

When I write about their family, you may be picturing a family of 5, 6, or maybe 7. In fact the family members that we met today were the first wife (of two) and her husband, their 11 children (of 16 when totaled from both marriages), their daughters-in-law and and 7 grandchildren. There are several other houses on the farm where other family members live. Of course, most of the children are too young to help as of yet, but the proximity of adult family members on the property makes managing the farm possible.

I asked some questions about land ownership. Within the Digo culture there is land ownership, but that is separate from the Kenyan government. This farm, for example, was passed on to the husband of this family from his father. The family that we met today has been living there for 25 years, and his father's family lived there before that.

The Kenyan government, however, by default owns any land that has not been legally purchased. This family does not have a deed, a title, and whatever else is necessary to ensure that the government will not sell their land to someone else.

In fact, there is a case where this happened a few years ago. A woman from Europe decided to start an orphanage. She purchased some land and had a building built. This all sounds lovely, but in fact it was quite detrimental for several reasons. It displaced the families that had been living there for generations. We met one of the families that was displaced because of this. They were landless and homeless at the drop of a hat after living on that land for generations.

Also, orphanages are not what the community wants here in Digoland. The institutionalized method of raising a lot of kids in a home until they are 18 is discouraged by Digo culture. 

The community in this region feels that it is much healthier for orphaned children to be placed in the homes of relatives. This makes more sense given the nature of how extended families often live nearby, if not on the same shared land. Also, when kids who have been raised in an orphanage turn 18, they are no longer under the care and provision of the orphanage. Often these people have a very difficult time adjusting. The community does not really feel that they are Digo anymore because they have been raised in an institution where the cultural norms and expectations are much different. It makes transition to adulthood very challenging. This information is per Terry and several women that we interviewed last year.

How can we avoid mistakes like this? This is an ongoing question that I think we must never decide has been finally answered. We must remain students and have the humility to realize that the members of the community are the main stakeholders, the experts, and the beneficiaries (or victims) of any development action that outsiders facilitate. In order to make projects sustainable, the community members must own the vision. It must be from them, of them, and by them to a large degree. 

We try to learn by observation, soliciting the views and needs expressed by the community, and deferring to Terry (who is the Community Development Specialist from Kenya). Though Terry is from Nairobi which is very different from Digo culture, she has spent the past 9 years living in Digo culture. She speaks Swahili, ChiDigo, and English fluently. She has a very good rapport with the community. She has had much success with her development efforts, and she has learned what often works and what usually doesn't.

Today was about learning. We got to see more into the farming culture here in Digoland. Collin and I wanted to further understand Digo culture in this region, and this trip has several days geared towards that. Today was one of those days, and we really enjoyed it.

So Honored

Today is our 6th anniversary. It is hard to believe how fortunate we are to have each other in this life. We are going to take the day and celebrate together. 

We wanted to leave you with this video that we put together of the feeding program at pamoja children's center. 

Many of you who are reading this blog have contributed directly to this program. If you purchased "meals for a nursery school in kenya" in the VCF christmas catalogue this year, then sit back and enjoy seeing your gift in action. Even if you didn't pay directly into this program through the christmas catalogue, if you tithe at VCF, then this is made possible by you as well. VCF is a generous donor to the projects here. 

We also appreciate various friends and family members who have donated to these projects and/or contributed to our trip in one way or another. Even apart from financial contributions, many of you have encouraged and supported us in this journey. Friends at work, professors who trained us, pastors who guide us, our parents who raised us and continue to love us (and watch our dog while we are gone), people who stand beside us through life as we discover how we can show true love on this earth in way that represents what we believe--we thank you.  

This heart warming event takes place twice per day every single day. We can't begin to express how honored we are to be here witnessing this. We hope that this video can help you feel connected to the miracles you are creating every day.

Primary School Day

We visited Vuga Primary school today to interview the head teacher about community issues. He said that poverty was the main obstacle that his students face. They don't have enough money to eat well, so they come to school very hungry. This makes it very difficult for them to focus or learn. Also, the school has a shortage of desks, so the children sit three to a desk, rather than two. Collin and I were thinking that this year for the Christmas Catalog, one item could be purchasing a desk to be built by the Pamoja Vocational Center Carpentry class. This would support the Vocational Center while providing a need for the Vuga Primary school. The cost of one desk is 2500 Kenyan Shillings, or US $33.00.

 

We returned to the Pamoja Center and had lunch with the children. We had beans and rice and cooked cabbage. I was so hungry by the time it came, and I loved every bite. We ate with our hands because that is normal in the village (people jokingly call that "the Digo spoon"). In the Digo Islamic belief  system, humility is important. So, eating with your hands is a humble way to eat, and that brings you closer to God. That explanation is per Terry. 

Then we visited another primary school to conduct interviews with the head teacher  and other important figures to solicit information about the community issues that interfere with children's education. This Deputy Officer (maybe this is like a principal?) said that a big problem for them is teenage pregnancy. We met with two girls who were several months pregnant. They gave us their stories. I was moved by their honesty and willingness to share with us what had happened with to them. I honestly am still processing much of what they shared, and it seems inappropriate to share too much detail on the blog. 

We were informed that sexual abuse is not uncommon. The Kenyan government does not get involved unless the village (local elders and chief) present the issue. The village elders and the chief will not present it to the Kenyan government unless witnesses come forward. Family members and neighbors (potential witnesses who often DO have incriminating testimonies) do not want to testify due to the shame that it will cause the family of the offender. 

Terry will be admitting the infants of these two girls to Jameelah's Vineyard this fall after they are born, and the girls will be supported to finish school through the Pamoja girls' program. The facility that Terry is currently renting for Jameelah's Vineyard is approved for up to 9 infants. Currently, there are two. Of course, increasing the number of infants admitted means that more materials are needed (cribs, highchairs, and especially diapers).  Hiring more house moms will also be necessary. All this costs money. 

We are hoping over the next couple of weeks that we can have wisdom and clarity about how we can best get involved and involve others in addressing some of these issues. We are so thankful that VCF as a whole and various individuals have been supporting some of the programs here. Even though there is more need than we can fill, it is good to do what we can. That bit that we do, we want to do in the most beneficial way for the community and ideally in a way that can be sustainable. 

WOW! What a day. (collin)

Today was a huge day. We had some truly fantastic experiences.

We started out our day by visiting the Vocational Training Center. I have been excited about this day for an entire year now, and let me tell you, I was not disappointed. 

The center is the location used for the sewing program that Lindsay and I planned with Terry last year and that VCF (our church, Vineyard Christian Fellowship) is sponsoring. Here is a super quick refresher for new readers. It is a 2 year vocational training program with government certified teachers. There are 30 students. Participants will graduate with a certificate and with job placements. VCF is funding the first batch of students through the first 2 years but the tuition is considered a loan of sorts. When those first students graduate, they will be certified to teach, and they will repay the "loan" by teaching the next batch of students.

It is hard to put into words what it felt like to visit. We had spent so much time planning with Terry last year, but nothing was up and running by the time we left. To walk into a center filled with students all working and being taught a valuable skill that they will be able to use to support themselves was just so moving. 

We were introduced to all of the students. Everyone is so grateful for the program. Hearing this expressed and seeing all of these people working so hard was just really cool. When you contrast this with their previous lives, and the lives of so many others in the villages, you just see how much this means to them. 

Here are a few pictures from the sewing program.

Here is a short video of one woman talking a bit about the program. (sorry for the bad audio. It was not a good environment for capturing sound and we haven't done any real post production. This is just from the camera).

Next we went to Pamoja Children's Center. We spent a fair amount of time there on our last trip, so it was wonderful to be back.  It is just such a beautiful and serene location. The kids there are so exuberant, the teachers are wonderful, and the program is amazing. 

This year they have 69 kids (19 more than previous years) who attend every day. One thing that the program does is feed the kids twice per day. Due to increased enrollment and an inflexible budget, it looked like they were not going to be able to feed all of these kids. They were trying to figure out how to send 19 of the kids home. Obviously, this isn't something that anyone would want to do, so they were dreading it. THEN, they received a substantial boost of money that was just enough to allow them to keep all of the kids enrolled and feed everyone each day. This money came from "The Alternative Christmas Catalogue" at VCF. Several individuals purchased meals for these kids at christmas time as a gift for someone else. That gift has allowed all of these kids to receive food that, otherwise, they would not.

We left the Children's Center and walked to a nearby village to meet with the chief of the whole area (he is the head chief over 28 villages). I don't usually stress out about much, but I was pretty nervous about this meeting. We didn't know we would be invited to meet him until partway through the day, so I was totally unprepared. I was just wearing a band tee shirt and ripped cargo pants and I had nothing prepared to say to him. When we were invited inside, I took a deep breath and stepped through the door.

The meeting was actually one of the most positive interactions I have ever had in a Digo Village. At first the introductions and the conversation were very formal. We started out by thanking him for the honor to meet with him and for welcoming us into his village. He was very gracious and thanked us for coming. After the nervous beginning, it didn't take long for things to unfold. Terry was with us and she has a very good rapport with the chief. He actually sits on the board of a couple of her projects (one of them being... OUR project, Jameelah's Vineyard, that assists women and infants). He said that, if we are with Terry, then we are free to come and go as we please. He said that she is one of the most valuable members of the community because of everything she does. He told us that anything we wanted to do in a partnership with her would have his blessing. He actually offered to write us a letter granting us official permission to pass through the villages and film anything we want (that is NOT a common thing here).

Before long we were laughing and talking about many things. We had told him in our introduction that we are from the U.S. but apparently he missed it. He asked us where we are from and we said "We are from the U.S." Not many people from the U.S. visit this part of kenya. Upon hearing that, he almost jumped up and he said "The U.S..!?!?!? OBAMA!?!?!? You my friends are KENYAN. You can do ANYTHING you want while you are here. WELCOME!!! Be free!!!"

After this meeting, we were feeling pretty fantastic. We were riding our motorcycle back down out of the hills to town just taking everything in. We were on one of the rare stretches of that road that is fully paved, straight, and relatively free of holes. I had eased the bike up to about 55 MPH when... the back tire blew out.

I have been riding a motorcycle for years, but I have never experienced anything like that in my life before. All at once, the back of the bike was sliding and swerving and pitching all over the road. To make matters worse, it has just started to rain, so the road was slippery. In case you are wondering, this was an absolutely terrifying experience at 55 MPH. Here is a recap of what was going through my head.

"We are going FAST and I can't control this thing. We are going to DIE!!! OK, we are slowing down a bit... we might not die now, but this is going to HURT... I might rather die. OK... we might get by with just a few broken bones. Wait... I stopped us. How on earth did I do that? How are we not dead?"

And this is what was going through Lindsay's head, and directly into my ear at full volume "AAAAAAAAAAAAAAHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH!"

Incidentally, my dad and I had just taken the PA Motorcycle Safety course about 2 weeks before this trip. They didn't teach you to go through that macabre thought process in that situation, but somehow I recalled exactly how they DID teach us to handle the bike. I was able to do what I had to do to avoid a really bad crash.

We called the guy who we rented the bike from. He was incredibly apologetic and came rushing out (that's a relative term... we were pretty far away) to meet us and to pay someone to fix it. Lindsay made some friends with several residents of the Matuga village on the premise that they thought her shrieking was funny (once they realized that we were okay). They also were very impressed with my driving skills as they witnessed the whole event. 

After 3.5 hours and a HUGE monsoon-like thunderstorm, were were back in Diani, safe and sound.

So, I can safely say that this was a day packed full of excitement.

Blog Updates

Please note that we posted 2 "real" stories today, so don't just read this update and then stop. We just wanted to mention a couple of changes we made the blog.

1. We have added links to subscribe to RSS feeds. If you know what those are, you're nerdy enough to appreciate them. If you don't know what they are you need to repent of your ignorance and start taking advantage of the awesome stuff that nerds create for you.
2. We removed the "word verification" security feature on the comments. Sorry for the hassle this created before. We didn't realize we had this feature enabled. Leaving a comment is no longer like a stressful pass / fail exam.
   

Part 2: Back on the road (the informative part)

When we arrived at in Kwale, it was a quite a reunion! We were so happy to see Terry again! She and Paul are such wonderful friends. We got to spend the day with Terry, Paul, their 15 month old son Dave, and two babies from the infant care center, Riziki and Swahip. Riziki is also called Jameelah, and Swahip is also called the Notorious B.I.G. 

I didn't realize this until we arrived, but Terry's home is adjacent to the infant center. The two buildings are so close that they basically form one unit. She spends her days with the infants more often than not, when she is not managing the Vocational Center or the activities at Pamoja. 

For those of you who don't know or need a refresher, here is a quick explanation: 

We met Terry on our second trip here. We instantly had a profound respect for her incredible work ethic and the results that her projects generate. She is Kenyan, she has a degree in community development, she has lived and worked in the Kwale district for 10 years, and she speaks swahili, chadigo, and english. These are all qualities that work in concert with her kind heart, charasmatic personality, and vision to help the digo people. We could not ask for a better partner to help us accomplish our goals.

Terry and Paul run several impressive and successful projects out of 3 centers. 

• "Pamoja Center" houses a children's nursery school for orphans and disadvantaged children in the community. The kids receive an education superior to the public schools as well as 2 cooked meals every day (many of these kids would not have access to food otherwise). The center also houses micro-financing programs that assist women in starting their own self-sustaining businesses. 
  
•  "The Vocational Training Center" offers a two-year certification program in sewing (sponsored by VCF).  The certification is governmentally approved and the women are placed into jobs at the end of the program. There are also carpentry classes at this center. These are sustainable, community-led efforts to develop life skills for members of the Digo community, particularly in the village of Vuga. 
  
•  "The Infant Center" is house for babies born to VERY young mothers (14-15 years old). The goal of the house is to provide long term care to the infants while the mothers go back to finish school. This program is unique because the mothers do not have to GIVE their baby to an orphanage or put them up for adoption. Rather, the infants are given proper care and nutrition while the mothers finish school AND come to the center to visit their child and learn how to care them. Eventually, once the mothers are ready and willing, they will resume the responsibility of raising the child. So far, this program is working beautifully. The case of Swahip, illustrates this well. When he arrived at the center, he was severely malnourished and his mother did not know how to care for him at all (she is 15 years old). Over the next few months, Swahip started gaining weight and moving around like a little kid should. He started to grow hair (he had none before) and eventually became a perfectly healthy baby. Now he is learning to walk and he is constantly smiling and laughing, almost as though he is showing his appreciation for all of the care, attention, and affection. His mother is back in school and doing well. She comes to visit at the center and is developing a close relationship with him while she receives instruction on how to properly raise a child. 
  

We spent the day discussing the details of these projects, talking about our lives, revisiting the past year's major events, and hammering out our vision for what we hope to accomplish in the next 3 weeks. 

Part 1: Back on the road (the funny part)

We traveled to Kwale today in style, thanks to the Timber Wolf 150cc motorbike that we rented for the next three weeks. Collin did a great job driving us there. He kept his cool the entire ride and got us there safely. This is impressive for a few reasons:

• The road has pot holes that would be more accurately described as craters.
• In town, the ditches along the roadways are used as public burning stations to dispose of garbage. The result is a dilapidated road clouded with thick smoke and dust. 
• It is not uncommon for people (as well as monkeys, cows, chickens, goats, and the occasional mongoose!) to make a mad dash across the road. When you are in the town near where we are staying, it is a constant hazard that one of the hundreds of matatus, motorcycles , cars, or trucks churning out black exhaust will swerve wildly out of the already weaving and leapfrogging traffic to miss one of the dashing pedestrians. 
  
• You drive on the opposite side of the road from the US. When you are in town, this just adds to the chaos. When you are not in town it doesn't matter because you rarely stay on one side of the road for more than a few seconds due the mandatory snake like maneuvers required if you want to avoid fusing your vertebrae together in one of the above mentioned pot holes.
  

At one point Collin whipped his helmeted head around and shouted, "Something flew off!"

I pushed up my plastic face shield and shouted back, "Something from our back pack?" afraid that my bag had come unzipped.

"NO! Like a piece of the bike just flew off!"

It was under control, though, after the initial swerve when he twisted around on his seat in utter disbelief. Apparently the part wasn't indispensable. We stopped and put it in our backpack to try to reattach it later.

Honestly (pronounce the "h" for a Kenyan accent), it was was luxury compared to the matatus. We started our journey right from our driveway without having to walk or stand in the hot sun and wait for an undetermined amount of time for a Matatu to arrive. When we were at the big junction in town, we just cruised on through without becoming the subject of a literal tug of war (with our bodies being used rather than a rope) between 5-6 hawkers who are paid to recruit passengers at the busy corner. We weren't smashed inside of the sauna-like van to sit on laps AND have our laps sat upon while we waited for 15 minutes, baking in the hot sun and body oder while the hawkers squabble over additional passengers.

I felt triumphant every time we passed one chugging along the road, people's limbs and other body parts spilling out from the windows. Once I actually rode a matatu bent at a 90 degree angle with my rear end sticking out one of the windows. It was the only way to fit (mostly) inside before the driver started flying down the road. That was one of my more indelicate moments, and it was much to my chagrin, at the time. Oh, well. It builds character, as my mom would say. Just like all those hair cuts she gave me until I was eleven. Anyway, really, I feel these things do develop your character and, if you let it, your sense of humor.

People say that this sort of experience teaches you a lesson. Well... we earned our PhDs in whatever lesson that was last year. We are replacing the B.O. with fresh air, and the close proximity to strangers' armpits with truly awe inspiring views of the countryside. The fact that we made that exchange AND we are saving money brings us both unspeakable joy.

Ready, Set...

Here is a good reason to make a trip like this a minimum of a few weeks. We had emailed 4 people we want to meet earlier in the week and heard nothing back by this morning. We had called and texted, but not received a reply. That is one cultural difference that greatly impacts the planning, timing, and execution of a trip here. When people have pay-as-you-go internet and phone service with spotty coverage, it can take a while to solidify plans. Add this to the different cultural value placed on planning and punctuality, and it can sometimes feel insurmountable to an American. 

We were finally able to talk with Terry (the amazing project manager we are fortunate to have working on this end) today and arranged to get started with our work tomorrow. We are looking forward to beginning our work with her in the village. We will be excited to write about our experiences in Kwale as our time doing the work there begins tomorrow. 

Some really great news: Collin negotiated a motorcycle rental for less money than it would cost us to take the matatu all month! We are SO excited about this. If you have ANY idea what the matatu riding experience is like, you would understand our elation. The price that Collin negotiated is less than 1/6 of what we had read about in our guidebooks and seen advertised here. This would not be possible if it were not the low season here. You can negotiate amazing deals during this time of the year. 

The downside to the fact that it is the low season is that we are some of the only westerners in town, so we get hit up to buy things any time we step outside of our cottage compound. We spent a good portion of the day walking through Diani. It was nice to do some walking after traveling for over 30 hours to get here. Walking in Diani is also a way for me to exercise my confrontational skills and boundary-setting. When shop-keepers here ask westerners to come to see their shop (this happened about 150 times today, seriously), we find that it is best to just nip it in the bud right then and there. No "maybe." No "some other day." If a westerner gives any slight inclination that he or she is remotely interested--or could be ever--they might as well have just promised to buy something. This is a generalization, but I have seen it to be true in my past experiences. And let's not forget the Kenyan Proverb, "To ask is to promise." Sometimes expressing interest is misinterpreted and misleading.

I made this error on my first trip to Kenya, and I was accused of breaking my promise when I didn't buy something from each person's shop to whom I had said, "Maybe later." I felt so horrible and guilty that I felt compelled to buy something small from about 10 different shops. The problem is, the shops in a tourist town such as Diani sell similar souvenirs from shop to shop. And no matter how guilty I felt, I knew that I didn't need or want pictures of elephants drawn on banana leaves, wooden animal carvings, and face masks. (An aside: sorry to all of you who got that stuff for birthdays and Christmases during college. I really tried to give only the best stuff as gifts. It was a tough time financially, I'm sure you can appreciate that.) Anyway, the experience left me feeling angry because that is what happens when I do something that I don't really want to do out of a sense of guilt or obligation. 

So, now, I walk down the street and respond according to my life experience. When people call out to me or walk up to me on the street, I am friendly but firm. There is always a back and forth conversation first that goes something like this:

Seller: Jambo!

Me: Jambo!

Seller: Habari?

Me: Mizuri. Habari?

Seller: Mizuri. From England? 

Me: No.

Seller: From Germany?

Me: No.

Seller: Where are you from? 

Me: From the US.

Seller: Oh, America. How is America?

Me: America is fine.

Seller: How about you come look in my shop?

Me: I am not doing any shopping. 

Seller: But looking is free.

Me: No, thank you. 

Seller: Maybe later, then?

Me: No, not later. Not ever. I am not here to shop. I am here to work. 

Seller: Maybe some other time then. 

Me: No. I am not shopping. Thanks, anyway! 

Seller: TOMORROW!

Me: No, thank you.

And then after I give a big smile to express the non-personal nature of the rejection,  I pick up the pace and walk as quickly as possible to make a get away. But, that latter part went awry at one point and I slid on some loose gravel at break-neck speed and completely wiped out. I had a huge scrape down my leg and gravel particles sticking to my skin and pants. I felt pretty dumb. 

And some version of this conversation happens over a hundred times a day in the span of a few miles, if we are walking on the main road in Diani. I am not exaggerating, either. It's complicated because it's a tourist town, so most white people are here to vacation and bring back a bunch of souvenirs. But we are not here for that, and it is really difficult to prove that. I feel much more adjusted to it this year, though. It doesn't even phase me now. I think I have said "No" so many times now, that I realize that the worst that can happen is that people will just keep following me for a while trying to persuade me, but I can just be firm in my answer. I don't have to be rude, just steadily set my boundary. I never used to be able to do this, so has actually been like therapy for me. I guess that is what happens when you exercise something; you get stronger. I am stronger now, and I feel that I can handle the culturally different and somewhat trying situations here with much more confidence and poise than last year...that is, when I don't lose my motor skills and tumble over sideways.